Engine is in and fires up. Tying up loose ends right now.
Top of that list is some frustration with the Racepak stuff. Bottom line is it simply cannot read any PIDs from the 2012 ECU I have. Not with the OBDII adapter cable or with the CAN hi and low hardwired directly to the dash, despite the fact we can view live data streaming via that same diagnostic connector with either a scan tool or HP Tuners. Racepak themselves have no idea why it can’t read this ECU, and I’ve verified this particular dash will pull PIDs via the adapter cable to diagnostic connector on other cars such as an ND that was here in the shop.
SO… I’m bypassing the ‘read the ECU’ plan. Wired in a temp sensor for coolant and adding the Racepak GPS module for speed. RPM is a bit of a puzzle because these ECUs have no tach signal output, but I have an MSD signal converter on the way that should take signal from the coil wire and output something the dash can understand.
Only thing I’m stuck on at this point is my oil pressure sensor… using a second factory GM OP sensor to feed signal to the Racepak. Problem is in configuring the dash to read it. Configured for a standard 0-150 psi sensor (0.5v=0psi, 4.5v=150psi) the scaling is funky. Sensor is outputting 0.43v with engine off (0-psi) which would be -2psi. I can’t find any info for this sensor online or in the GM database to use for a custom calibration.
I want to be able to have complete confidence in the OP reading so the best approach is to test it personally and then manually calibrate the Racepak based on those results. I built a bench tester today, will get to play with it tomorrow.
Figured I’d take a little extra time to make something that could be useful in the future. NPT ports for all the common sensor sizes, two air valves so I can fill/bleed and monitor pressure without switching back and forth, portable enough that it can be placed in the engine bay so the sensor is operating on the vehicle wiring. Can be used to bench test temp sensors as well by standing it vertically, removing the end cap, filling with water and then heating the water and validating the temp with a thermometer.
With this new bench test contraption, I was able to confirm it’s a 0-130 psi sensor. I was able to calibrate the Racepack very accurately to the specific scaling of this sensor. Dash reads OP perfectly now.