Last weekend, with two weeks to go before the first track testing of this season, I was debating whether I should swap in transmission #2. From my post back in January, when trans #2 arrived I was able to confirm that the shifter rod was supposed to pivot – and that the pivot on trans #1 in the car was seized. That’s been the cause of my clunky/stiff shifter feel, which is one of two transmission issues I’ve been dealing with. Issue #2 has been with clutch disengagement, and this one everyone has noticed because you can hear the gear grinding in my videos. Having checked out everything outside of the transmission, we feel confident the issue must be in the relationship between the throwout bearing and the clutch. Can’t know for sure without getting in there. January was stuffed full with getting all of the updates/changes in the suspension and brakes on the car because so I can start out early season testing with all of that in place, so this is the earliest I’ve had a chance to turn attention to the transmission.
I already had measurements for the transmission side of things from trans #2 sitting on the bench. I even bought an MV5 (Camaro version of the transmission) to take the same measurements and confirm first-hand there weren’t any differences between the two variants (I’m using the Cadillac MV7):
To get the full picture, we also needed to measure the clutch and flywheel. Based on the nature of the clutch disengagement problems, we expected that when we got in there we would find the throwout bearing is too far from the clutch fingers, and that would be an easy fix – you just shim the slave/TOB assembly to the correct position. On Sunday I dropped the engine/subframe/trans:
I expected I’d pull a long day and have everything back in the car by night with the TOB shimmed to the correct location. With everything out, I measured the clutch and flywheel height, and that threw a wrench in the plans. The TOB wasn’t too far from the clutch, it was too close, and by a massive amount. With the trans bolted to the engine and everything at rest, the TOB would already be compressing the clutch fingers by 0.200″ (and the fingers only have an intended range of motion of about 0.400″). So the problem is the opposite from expected; I’m over-stroking the clutch.
Left everything on the ground and called SPEC Monday morning. Based on their notes, the stack height from flywheel/crankshaft surface to clutch fingers for their clutch/flywheel assembly should be 3.800″ +/- .005″. Mine is 4.1″
With the window of time to get everything back together quickly shrinking (The car still needs to visit the alignment shop and the dyno prior to the track) I overnighted the clutch and flywheel back to SPEC. They’re working on it now, no word yet but it would appear they manufactured the flywheel with the wrong thickness.
2 days later:
Corrected items arrived back from SPEC yesterday. They say it was a machining error inside the pressure plate that affected the pivot. As soon as it arrived I measured things to verify, finger height from crank surface is now 3.85x” which leaves the TOB about 0.030″ of a gap from full compression. We’re in the ballpark now.
Reattached engine and trans last night. Should have the engine back in the car today, at which point I’ll be back on-track where I was a week ago, but now with one week to do two weeks of stuff. Still holding my breath, I won’t declare the transmission issues fixed until I’ve actually driven it on the track, but if they are then it was all worth it.
2 days later:
Drivetrain is back in the car as of today, filled with fluids, test fired, bled, etc. So far I can say for the first time that the shifter feels great! Return to center in neutral feels natural and all of the “clunky stickiness” I had before is gone now. The shift rod pivot was definitely the problem there. Fingers crossed that the clutch engagement issues are equally fixed!